When Sekhmet calls - 1
Egypt, Africa, 2021
I knew I loved you before I met you.
I think I dreamed you into life.
I knew I loved you before I met you.
I have been waiting all my life.
— Savage
Leaving Egypt and the Sinai desert in 2005 I strongly felt it would not be my last visit to this amazing part of the world. I had not imagined though, that it would take sixteen years before I would set foot in the country again. When in the summer of 2021 I felt like returning to the Sinai desert, it came as a surprise. Hadn’t I promised myself not to travel during this chaotic time of transition on our planet? Yet, the call was so strong and clear that it took me less than an hour to do a full surrender and say yes to booking my next Sinai desert camel trek. Sitting in meditation that evening, the sphinx and pyramids were shown to me. I felt in awe, realizing that ancient Egypt was finally calling me as well. A call, which was instantly confirmed by messages about the pyramids, which had been sent to me by a friend while I was meditating.
After I had surrendered to booking the camel trip, I felt familiar happiness flow through me. I was going back to the Sinai desert in Egypt. Not only that, this time there would be more of Egypt to explore. There was reading to be done about the country’s ancient wonders of which I had little knowledge other than there being pyramids, sphinxes and temples. I at least had to have an idea of the places I wanted to visit before getting in touch with a travel agency.
When telling my friend about the synchronicity of her messages, she replied that my trip might be related to the lion people. I wasn’t really surprised. After all, I feel a strong connection to lions and my plush lion friends had already made it clear that they wanted to join me. My lioness though, wasn’t jumping for joy over the idea of spending nine days on a camel in the desert. She accepted after I told her it was all or nothing.
From the moment I arrive in Egypt to the moment I leave, about five weeks later, it will be magical, day after day after day. It is a joy to go back to the desert and to be greeted with enthusiasm by Joyce and Musa. I had thoroughly enjoyed both of my camel treks in 2005, but this one was beyond my wildest dreams.
It has been a long time since my last leisure trip. When I started a travel agency in Mali[1], West Africa in 2010, my own travels came to an end. For eleven years traveling was limited to work-related trips and family visits. I have dearly missed traveling.
I fly to Egypt only a day after having handed over my travel agency in Mali to team member and good friend Abdoulaye. Starting the new phase of my life with time away from phone and internet connection feels like the best way possible to transition from being a busy business owner to being a free spirit again.
I experience the trip and the desert in an entirely new way. Beautiful Haluan, who carried me on my two camel treks in 2005 is no longer walking the earth plane. This time I am riding on Zar’aan, one of Musa’s camels. I breathe in freedom and the desert like never before. Riding on a camel, sitting around the campfire with the Bedouins, enjoying the meals they prepare for us and sleeping under the starry sky… every day is a blessing. My heart shines.
To make it even better the itinerary for the trek has been changed since I was last here and we are riding through areas I have not seen before. I am treated to beauty and joy beyond my imagination. I feel like a kid in a candy store, only this is much better. This feeds my soul; I couldn’t be happier.
“I need to go there”, I almost shout to Musa, who is riding next to me, when we approach a huge rock formation. My body is tingling from excitement, even though I have not yet noticed the lion rock.
“No, no”, Musa calmly answers, explaining that we will continue a bit. I feel like jumping off my camel. Being realistic enough to know that it will most probably not be a happy landing, I let go of the thought and try to calm down my excitement. Musa enthusiastically tells me about a trip with a group, who had spent two days at this place.
Step by step the camels take us further away from it and by the time we arrive at the place, where we stop for lunch, I have only one question: how long will it take me to walk back. Musa estimates it to be half an hour maximum. As we are spending the night here, this should give me enough time to walk back after lunch and visit what I will soon name the Lions’ temple.
Wherever I look, I see lions: lion faces on the rocks and rock formations resembling lions and sphinxes. No wonder all three of my lions wanted to join me on this magical trip. At the top of a canyon-like slope in the left part of the area a winged lion is proudly standing. It is as if he is calling me and I know I will have to climb all the way up. Not now though. Today I allow myself to just take it all in. I am lying down on a beautiful stretch of fine white sand, taking in the sounds, colors, shapes and energy of this magical place.
I make it back to the camp just before nightfall.
“Monique, if you wake up early like every morning, you will have plenty of time to go back again tomorrow morning. We have not left before 9 am on any of the days and we certainly won’t do so tomorrow”, Joyce says, after having listened to my story.
I decide to not set my alarm and to see what happens.
Opening my eyes, I am not truly surprised to find out it is just before sunrise. It is clear that I have to go back. Quietly I get dressed. I arrange my luggage and shortly after I am on my way again. There is still so much to discover at the Lions’ temple. I have not even been near the area of the sphinxes or to any of the rock formations on the right side of the temple. I would love to go there, but it will have to wait. Arriving at the temple I surrender to the deeper knowing that there is only one thing to do this morning: climbing the slope all the way up to the winged lion. I take a deep breath realizing that this 11 November is sending me a challenge. The first half of the slope is sandy. The white sand is loose and the slope is steep. Every two steps up has me sliding one back. I am not making much progress. Spotting snake trails on both sides of the slope is not very comforting. I realize that I could well be face to face with one if I accidently happen to disturb it.
I find myself sitting down in the middle of the slope in a small area free of snake trails. I look back down to where I have started. It has taken me a fair bit of time to get here, which is only halfway up the sandy part of the slope. The upper half of the slope, which seems about the same length, consists of rocks and could well be more challenging.
Munching on my breakfast, I wonder if it is realistic to believe I can make it all the way to the top this morning. Closing my eyes for a moment, the higher self of the man, who was on my mind during the 2005 trip, shows up. He reaches out his hand and invites me to continue the climb to the top with the words “Come, let’s get this over with.”
“What if I can’t?”, I answer.
“Of course you can”, he replies, promising me that there is a gift awaiting me at the top.
“What if I don’t do it now?”, I ask.
“Then you will have to come back.”
“How long would I have to come back for?”
He raises two fingers. I nod. I will be happy to return for two days.
“By camel?”, I ask, feeling rather sure the answer will be yes. To my surprise I am shown that I will return by car.
“Or we can get it over with now”, he suggests with a smile.
A quick glance at my phone shows me that I have only seventeen minutes left before I will have to start the walk back to the camp to get there around nine o’clock. Even though it is quite unrealistic to assume that I would be able to climb all the way up and get back down in such a short time, I decide I may just as well try to make it to where the sandy part of the slope ends and the rocky part starts. And so I do.
Standing at the start of the rocky part I am sincerely wondering how on earth I will ever be able to get over the first big vertical rock. I honestly have no clue and gladly allow myself to push any thoughts about tackling this challenge forward to my next time around. The slide down the steep sand slope is a breeze.
Back in the camp, the Bedouins are preparing the camels for departure. Tea is waiting for me. Knowing that I will come back to this magical place makes it easier to leave. Even though I would happily have spent the remaining days of the trip here, I truly enjoy the rest of the camel trek and the gorgeous desert scenery it takes me through. A scenery that offers such a variety, that I never stop being surprised and in awe about what lays behind the next hill or rock formation.
Eight days after my first visit to the Lions’ temple I am back in the desert. I have never before traversed the desert by car and it feels a bit strange. To me it does not resonate as the right way to honour this sacred ground. However, it was clearly shown to me and that has made it easier to surrender to it. Joyce made all arrangements for me and I am feeling confident and comfortable going back, accompanied by guide-driver Ibrahim and by 14 year old Yussef.
I admit that I have over the days wondered why I have to travel by car this time and I have worked through all kinds of possibilities, both mentally and emotionally. Surely all of these were fear-based and I honestly didn’t like what I was taking myself through. I forced myself to reconnect to my heart and to the deeper knowing that I will be prepared for, and capable of handling, whatever might present itself to me these two days.
My heart starts shining and a big smile warms my face when we arrive at the beautiful area of the Lions’ temple. I am a bit shocked though that we are entering the area by car. It had never occurred to me that this could happen. Ibrahim is looking for a good place to set up camp for lunch, driving the car into all corners. I had tried to express my wish to enter on foot. My voice is overpowered by the roaring sounds of the engine. I feel that we are treading on sacred ground and it feels rather uncomfortable doing so by car.
Ibrahim ignores my yesses about every place being good for me; they clearly are not to him. Of course, he is taking into account the possible presence of animals and the wind direction; he feels responsible for us to be safe and sheltered. Finally he settles for a place and I am all too happy for the engine to be turned off, and to set foot in the Lions’ temple again.
While the men prepare lunch, I set out on a stroll. Having arrived by car I feel the need to walk out of the temple and to enter through what I feel to be the main gate. I cannot undo the traces the car has left, but I can at least pay my respect and apologies and enter the way I feel to be right.
I wander around for a while and return to the place where I had planted forget-me-not seeds on my first visit. My hopes that the 24-hour rain fall at the end of our camel trek might have made them grow are in vain. I sit down to take a good look at the slope leading to the winged lion. I am still clueless about how to make it to the top. Despite having asked for it, no clarity was given to me. The route I took last time on the sandy part of the slope seems to be the shortest, but I doubt I will manage to get over the first big rock and make it from there all the way up. The probably loose rocks on the right side of the slope might be a better option even if they come with certain risks as well.
The rain has changed the looks of the area and especially this slope where the water must have gushed down. More pieces of rock have fallen down. I will have to be ultra-careful. Most certainly they are not firmly placed on top of each other. Not to mention the fact that this area is protected by snakes and that the rocks offer them great places to hide.
I have used my time in Dahab wisely. Apart from a couple of healing shiatsu massages, I have spent time researching the types of snakes in the Sinai desert. Venomous to the point that a bite would send me to the other side.
Images of the black desert cobra had sent shivers down my spine. I have challenged myself to come to peace with snakes in general and with this variety in particular. I believe I have reached the point of being willing to meet and face one.
After lunch, generously flavoured with desert sand by a gust of wind, I am ready to go. I have no doubts left. Deep down inside there is the knowing that I still have work to do on this beautiful planet; my life won’t end here. It gives me the confidence I need. Whatever happens will be in line with my destiny. I call on the black desert cobra to meet me, if that is what is meant to be.
The rain has not only changed the area, it also has firmed up the sand a bit, which works in my favour. I start my climb on the bottom left part of the slope, whereas I had opted for the right side on the previous climb. Going on all fours I am making good progress. I am determined to make it all the way to the top.
Much faster than I expected I make it to the right side of the sand slope, where the rocky part of the climb starts. Carefully I place my feet from one piece of rock to the next, making sure to have good balance and grip before taking the next step. Every now and then I take a moment to catch my breath, to give my muscles a break, to look around at the truly stunning surroundings and to tell the black desert cobra again that I am ready to meet. I am happy with the confidence I feel within.
Fifty minutes after having started the climb, I reach the top. Sitting down just below the winged lion I feel thrilled and proud of myself. I did it, without even seeing a snake. Now where is my gift? My soulmate’s higher self has been very absent today and is nowhere to be seen to hand it to me. Brilliant. Well, that’s fine too. I guess the fact that I have faced my fears and made it to the top is a gift in itself.
Now that I am here, I may just as well take a moment to look around. Climbing around a rock I see a steep sandy slope of about one and a half metres wide going about ten meters down; I wonder what is around the corner. I spot something below that could well be a few faded footprints. Feeling confident that I will one way or the other be able to climb back up, I slide down.
Upon turning the corner I am blown away. They are indeed faded footprints. Apparently, someone made it all the way here from the other side[2]. I start following the traces along the rocks and start laughing when I spot a huge sand slope on the right, going down all the way.
Climbing up the rocky part I had a few times wondered how to get back down. Going up was one thing, going down would have been a challenge of an entirely different level. I needn’t have worried. This slope is the best gift ever. With a huge smile on my face I start running and sliding down. I am laughing out loud and am having so much fun that it is almost a pity that there is no-one to share it with.
Reaching the bottom of the slope I am no more surprised to see that I find myself at a stone’s throw distance from where we had set up camp during the camel trek. Even though I was not ready for the climb up at that time, it might after all have been possible to make it back to the camp before 9 am. That is, if I had allowed myself to be guided to this shortcut. What a lesson to trust the universal guidance beyond logic and reason.
Today it means that I will have to backtrack a mere thirty minutes to the Lions’ temple, where Ibrahim and Yusef are waiting for me.
Arriving at the temple, I see the car leaving the lunch spot, driving towards the slope I have climbed. It being quite a distance from where I am the men don’t see me waving nor hear me calling. Of course they also would not expect me to return from this side.
Laughing, I set out in pursuit. The car goes out of sight, near the bottom of the slope. The next thing I see is Yussef walking up the slope, following my footsteps. I watch in surprise at how he makes his way up with ease, as if he is walking on a firm and level surface. He does not need to use his hands and does not seem to slide back either; a true child of the desert. With a loud scream I manage to prevent him from climbing all the way to the top in search of me.
We head for a nearby cave, where Yussef and I wait for Yussef’s father. Ibrahim had kindly stepped in, when Awèd was facing a family situation. As soon as the car leaves the wind picks up. There is no place to shelter from the wind, which is blowing full force into the cave, making the fire sway wildly in all directions. Yussef and I communicate through smiles, hands and feet, making the best of it, while we wait for Awèd’s arrival.
Getting out of the car Awèd briefly takes in the situation and instantly decides that this is not the right place for us to spend the night. Even though I had dreamt of sleeping in this cave since I had seen it during the camel trek, I have to admit he is right. Maybe one day there will be another chance for me to spend the night here.
I hop in the car and much to my surprise I thoroughly enjoy the evening drive. In large part because Awèd is a skilled and confident desert driver. I feel one hundred percent safe, while we are speeding through the fascinating scenery. Finding it already hard to keep my orientation in the desert during daytime, I honestly have no clue where we are going in the dark. And then suddenly I recognize it: we are heading for the caves where we had a candlelight dinner on the last night of our camel trek.
The two connected caves provide us with excellent shelter for cooking, eating and sleeping. The slow-cooked food prepared by Awèd tastes delicious. As always I am in awe over the time and care the Bedouins put towards preparing meals.
A week ago I spent the night near the rock wall opposite this cave, watching the stars above and waking up to the sight of camels and breakfast preparations in the cave. Tonight I sleep inside. At least I can see the full moon and more importantly I am protected against the wind and the flying sand.
Waking up early, I have a few hours to stroll around this special area. I climb into some of the higher caves, collect some rocks and take in the peaceful and calm atmosphere before we return to the Lions’ temple.
Having completed my mission yesterday, it is now time to explore other areas. Yesterday I was so focussed on making it to the top, that there really wasn’t room for anything else. I spot more lion faces in the areas of the temple I visit today. What a gift to have these two days here. Looking back with the knowledge I now hold, I know that technically speaking I could have finished the challenge when I was here during the camel trek. I am most grateful though that I didn’t and that I chose to return for two days.
It almost feels as if this was always meant to be the outcome. What a blessing this trip is. Strolling around I find myself picking up rocks, including fossils, a stone with a snake on it and a beautiful white heart, which, as fate transpires, I will give to a special person I will meet in the next part of this Egypt trip.
When the time has come to say goodbye to this amazing place, I do so with a heart filled with joy, love and gratitude. Bye bye beautiful Lions’ temple. Inshallah, I will be back.
My Sinai desert time far exceeded whatever expectations I could possibly have had. To be honest I did not have many, but I never had expected to set foot in the Lions’ temple. Joyce tells me that other people have also, like me, felt the urge to get off their camels to visit this special place. They had named it the Sun temple. Maybe one day, below the sand dunes and the stunning rock formations, the remains of an ancient temple will be discovered. If so, I have no doubt that I know it from another lifetime.
Back from my second trip into the desert I linger in Dahab for a few more days, wondering where and when to go next. It does not take long before I find myself booking a flight to Luxor. Before traveling to Egypt I had created a shortlist of suitable accommodations in Luxor. I could have saved myself the time. None have availability.
Starting a new search I soon have several windows opened on my computer, comparing the pros and cons of the accommodations. I make my choice, fill out the booking form and enter my credit card details to complete the booking. Right when I am about to hit the send button my computer mysteriously switches to another window.
Surprised, I am staring at the screen; my mouse is still at the same place. For a brief moment I am flabbergasted and then I hear myself starting to laugh. It looks like a higher power has decided I have to go to another place. Fine with me. This one looks pretty good too; I surrender to the divine guidance.
Coming next: part 2 of my Egypt 2021 adventure.
[1] Papillon Reizen, www.papillonreizen.com
[2] It is only afterwards that I realize these could very well have been the faded footprints of Anneke, a group member from the camel trek. She had climbed a slope near the camp the afternoon I had visited the Lions’ temple for the first time. Later on when I speak to her about her climb, we soon conclude that they were indeed hers.
This story was first published in my book The World at my Feet.
I offer it to you, free of charge, to express my gratitude for being here with me. Starting this Substack has been one of the highlights of my year 2024.
For information about camel treks in the Sinai desert: www.desertjoy.nl
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